A Culinary Courtship of Scandinavia and Japan:
“I always enjoyed the far east, especially Japan,” explains Onural. “I joke that I must have been Japanese in one of my lifetimes. But there was a knowing. It was crystal clear how I felt about Japan and its food. It literally came from inside of me.”
Graduating with a degree in business information management from Bilkent University in Ankara, Turkey, Onural headed west to Los Angeles to study under Andy Matsuda, founder of the Sushi Chef Institute. “Andy gave me a good foundation, a traditional sushi chef education,” says Onural. “From there, I forged my own path with my own style, as I did with my first sushi restaurant, The Venue, on El Paseo in Palm Desert. Sandfish is another exploration on that path.”
And the Scandinavian twist? “I have traveled often to the Scandinavian countries, but my favorite is Norway,” notes Onural. “I have a good friend in the Molde region on the west coast of Norway and that is where I harvest my salt. Salt from the North Sea.”
“My restaurant is my interpretation of Japan and Scandinavia. I wanted to create the fika [Swedish] concept, where something is cozy, a place for friends to gather. And when you walk in to Sandfish, there is a warm welcome with a lot of wood and Scandinavian design.”
For sushi novices, Onural points out that half of his menu is cooked and there are dishes to try that may well entice the skeptics. For example, the spicy tuna tostada, a thin, crisp tostada, is a gentle entrée into raw* fish. Garnished with feta cheese, a light sauce and micro greens, the flavors and crunch create the perfect culinary bite, a burst of flavor. The Sandfish roll is another example of the perfect bite — spicy tuna, crab meat and avocado topped with lightly fried potato threads, spicy aioli, teriyaki sauce, micro greens, green onions and black truffle zest.
One of the most requested dishes at Sandfish is the braised and grilled Spanish octopus, served on a bed of edamame (soybean) hummus with a sprinkling of micro greens and bubu arare, tiny, round Japanese rice crackers that supply a delicate crunch. Tsukadani nori sauce, framing the octopus in small round circles, adds a subtle sweetness and depth that is difficult to describe — except that you want to dip every bite in it and request a jar to take home.
Classic sushi
Sandfish has something for everyone, including the classics like sashimi — thinly sliced raw fish or meat served with pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce; nigari sushi — raw fish perched on perfectly sculpted sticky rice; and maki rolls — rice, fish and vegetables rolled in seaweed and cut. Hand rolls are the uncut version of a maki roll with varying degrees of creativity.
Appetizers and signature dishes
In addition to their popular spicy tuna tostadas, Sandfish appetizers include stuffed zucchini blossoms, jalapeño poppers, beef or chicken gyoza, miso soup and edamame. Signature dishes include scallops served with walnuts, yuzu vinaigrette and topped with sea beans; Hamachi Kama — yellowtail collar served with ponzu (Japanese dipping sauce), scallions and micro greens; albacore tataki — lightly seared albacore, marinated shallots and fennel, fermented lime koshu (white wine) and taro chips; and Prince Edward mussels served in a miso sake broth with toasted bread.
Perhaps the flashiest bunch on the menu are the signature rolls, including the aforementioned Sandfish roll. With names like the Venue roll, California Dreamin, Scandinavian, the Experiment, the Bold, and Lollipop, diners have many options from which to choose, with artful presentations simply elevating the exquisite flavor combinations.
To truly experience the variety of Sandfish’s menu, the nine-course tasting menu covers a lot of territory, from appetizers to sashimi and nigiri sushi, to a sampling of a signature dish and two signature rolls. Arrive hungry and don’t be embarrassed to leave with leftovers. Note: everyone at the table must order the Omakase which is a fixed price.
Sandfish libations are numerous with an extensive list hailing from Japan. Mocktails are also available and pair especially well with the sashimi.
Sandfish has indoor seating, limited bar seating and two outdoor eating areas. At time of publication, all Palm Springs restaurants require proof of Covid-19 vaccination to eat indoors. Reservations to eat at Sandfish are highly recommended.
*Consuming raw or undercooked seafood may increase your risk of foodborne illness.
Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey
1556 North Palm Canyon Drive
Palm Springs, California 92262
Sunday – Thursday 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Friday – Saturday 4:30 to 11 p.m.
760.537.1022