The Sand to Snow National Monument
When President Obama signed a presidential proclamation designating the local Sand to Snow National Monument on February 12, 2016, it was the culmination of years of visionary efforts by conservationists and ecologists to safeguard one of the most biodiverse areas in Southern California.
Spilling over the line between San Bernardino and Riverside counties, the Sand to Snow National Monument protects 154,000 acres of diverse mountain and desert habitats of the San Bernardino Mountains, southern Mojave Desert, and northwestern Colorado Desert. It connects vast tracts of important open spaces, forming a crucial landscape link between the San Bernardino National Forest/San Gorgonio Wilderness area, Joshua Tree National Park and Bighorn Mountain Wilderness area.
More than two decades ago, The Wildlands Conservancy began the privately funded acquisition of 60,000 acres of land, buying properties that were in danger of being developed in order to protect important wildlife corridors. The Conservancy established Whitewater Preserve and Mission Creek Preserve, which were incorporated into the new monument, and Pioneertown Mountains Preserve. The Big Morongo Canyon Preserve, protected as a wildlife reserve since 1982, was also included in the monument.
Co-managed by United States Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management, the monument extends from around 1,000 feet elevation on the Coachella Valley desert floor up to over 11,000 feet in the San Bernardino National Forest. More than 100,000 acres of the monument lay within the mountainous San Gorgonio Wilderness area, home to San Gorgonio Mountain. At 11,500 feet, it is the highest peak in California south of the Sierra Nevada and one of 11 peaks on the San Bernardino range more than 10,000 feet in elevation.
The Sand to Snow National Monument, with artifacts of ancient peoples, soaring mountain peaks, critical wildlife corridors and a rich biological heritage, presents a striking diversity of lands and vital habitats. From desert treks to snowshoe trails, the monument also offers a wide variety of recreation opportunities. Incredibly, 24 million people live within a two-hour drive of the monument, and the San Gorgonio Wilderness — with more than 200,000 visitors annually — is the number one visited wilderness in Southern California.
A rich history
Indigenous tribes in the region considered San Gorgonio Mountain a sacred place. The Serrano and Cahuilla peoples lived near the base of the mountain, supported by an abundance of food and medicinal plants, animals to hunt and access to fresh water. Several cultural and archeological sites date back to the earliest inhabitants of the area, and an estimated 1,700 Native American petroglyphs can be found in the monument.
Then, as now, the San Gorgonio Pass was part of a major trade route that led from the east to the California coast, bringing goods and new populations to the region. Spanish missionaries built Rancho San Gorgonio in the late 1700s and by the mid-1800s, ranchers were grazing sheep, horses and cattle in the area. Intrepid miners prospected in the southeastern San Bernardino Mountains, leaving behind the remains of old cabins, mine shafts, prospecting pits and refuse deposits.
New modes of transportation soon gave the public unprecedented access to travel and by the mid-1920s, 75,000 to 100,000 people annually were visiting the San Bernardino Mountains for recreation and outdoor enjoyment. It became obvious during this period that protections would be needed for the popular area, and the preservation movement was born.
An ecologist’s dream
The Sand to Snow National Monument is the most botanically rich national monument in the United States, thanks to its geographical location. More than 1,600 different plant species are native to the range, influenced by the convergence of three distinct ecosystems: chaparral and California oak woodlands to the west, Mojave Desert to the east, and Colorado Desert to the south. The rugged topography and steep elevations create a wide range of ecosystems, from riparian forests, creosote bush scrub and woodlands to fresh water marshes and alpine conifer forests. Water plays a vital role in the life of the monument, where headwaters of the Whitewater River, Morongo Creek and San Gorgonio River originate. At South Fork Meadows, hundreds of springs bubble up to the surface, the very beginning of the South Fork of the Santa Ana River.
The monument is an ideal environment for biological and ecological research, studies of climate and land use change, and analyzing the impact of fire and invasive species. Secluded habitats support a variety of wildlife, including twelve federally listed threatened and endangered animal species. Fringe-toed lizards skitter in sand dunes at lower elevations while bighorn sheep dance across rocky mountainsides. More than 240 species of birds have been spotted at the monument’s natural oases, familiar stops on migration routes. Vast remote forests create one of the highest densities of black bear habitats in Southern California.
Camping, hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, horse packing, birdwatching, fishing, stargazing, mountain biking — there are nearly endless opportunities to explore and enjoy Sand to Snow, depending on the interest and time of year. Higher elevation paths for cross-country skiing in winter become hiking trails in warmer months.
There are 81 miles of scenic trails in the San Gorgonio Wilderness. For those hikers who like a challenge, 30 miles of the 2,600-mile Pacific Crest Trail passes through the Sand to Snow National Monument. Avid hikers can also take on the “Nine Peaks Challenge,” a grueling, all-day 27-mile trek that gains more than 8,300 feet in elevation across nine peaks.
Several campgrounds and many recreational activities, including fishing, horseback riding and mountain biking trails, are found on the west and north sides of the monument and are accessible from Route 38.
Limited but free wilderness permits for day hiking and overnight camping are required within the San Bernardino National Forest and are available online. Some trails have been closed due to recent fires; prospective hikers should check online for current conditions.
Whitewater Preserve, located five miles northwest of Palm Springs, is named after the Whitewater River that runs through it. Bighorn sheep and deer can be seen, and occasionally a black bear or mountain lion. Access to the Pacific Coast Trail is here, and a moderate two-mile walk leads to the Red Dome, a ruddy-colored volcanic mound. The Canyon View Loop Trail is more strenuous with 1,000 feet of climbing, but hikers are rewarded with amazing views. Check the Visitor’s Center for maps and other park information. Take the Whitewater exit off I-10, turn right onto the service road and then left on Whitewater Canyon Road.
Big Morongo Canyon Preserve boasts 31,000 acres of creek and marsh habitat surrounded by desert, making it one of the ten largest cottonwood and willow riparian habitats in California. There are several trails, including a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk through the marsh. This desert oasis attracts many rare or unusual species of birds during spring and fall migrations and is an internationally-recognized birding site. Look for the signs on State Route 62 in Morongo Valley.
Due to the pandemic and recent fires, some areas or amenities may be closed or have limited accessibility. Online resources for specific areas will have updated status information.
Resources
San Bernardino National Forest and San Gorgonio Wilderness — fs.usda.gov
Preserve information — wildlandsconservancy.org
